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In the third part of this series, Dr Fouzia Saeed recalls her travels

Traveling is a significant part of my life. The thrill of adventure is one thing, but I guess ‘sameness’ in life is something that I always have a hard time with. I inherited the love of traveling from my father. He always encouraged us to venture out and brought us books about other countries. I got to see some interesting countries in my school years with my family and when I got into collage, my younger brother and I teamed up for adventures of our own. I remember even when I was in the States for my education; I would save up and venture out by myself, to whichever country matched up my budget. I visited Mexico, Jamaica, Canada and many others that were close to the States. When I returned to Pakistan I continued my adventures.

The other thing which I love about traveling is the newness of every moment. It keeps my mind and senses alert. There are so many stimuli around – the scenery, the new faces and the culture. I am addicted to that feeling. It is almost like I touch the essence of life when I am traveling.

Sometimes my parents would insist that I stay with some relatives or friends in the countries where I was traveling, just for security purposes. This helps when you’re traveling on a tight budget and I sometimes agreed to it. Once I was going to Africa and Nairobi was my first stop over. I stayed with some distant relatives there, very warm and welcoming people. But I just couldn’t get them out of their shock of a young girl backpacking across Africa. They quickly became over protective, which is one of the reasons why I stopped staying with friends and family on my trips. A guest at their house mentioned that ‘these English medium young girls and boys do not see any difference in traveling through Africa and Europe’.

I was planning to go to visit Lake Nakuru because I had seen pictures of the lovely pink flamingos that lived there. My relatives were adamant that I would not go there without arranging a proper tourist company’s tour because it was far away in the middle of a forest. I hate such bus tours. I had made no plans arrange one. I do what I have to, to go where I want to.

The next day, I woke early and quietly got out of the house before anyone else got up and left for Lake Nakuru on my own. I took a regular local bus to the last town at the edge of the jungle and roamed around the town to look for options. I found a Sikh Bhai who drove a cab. I arranged with him to drive me into the forest up to the lake and he agreed. The sight was magical. I had a great day. When I came back later that day and called my relatives from a bus stop in some part of Nairobi, they were frantic and rushed over to pick me up. They got mad at me because where I got off from the bus was not a very dignified area of Nairobi and they were obsessed with how they could tell my parents if I had gotten lost or injured in the forest. Later, I learned that their guest, who was telling me that a young woman cannot travel alone, got mugged while walking on the main street in downtown Nairobi in the middle of the day! I told them when it comes to criminal activity it doesn’t matter if it is a man or a woman, if you are alone or in a group or whether it is day or night, so why put all the burden on poor women and curtail their mobility.

Author (right) with a woman in Massai Mara, Kenya

In front of the Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe

Adventures in the Bahamas – author in her diving suit

Author (right), with a friend in Samarkand

Flamingos at Lake Nakuru

Diving excursion in South Burma – with her husband Paul

Once I was in South America and I had a multi-city ticket on Air Peru, but it didn’t matter which other country I went to I had to go back to Peru to take my next flight. They didn’t issue a multiple visa for Peru, so I had to get a visa stamped every time I went back to change planes, so my passport pages quickly filled up. I got stuck in Chile when I ran out of pages. There was no Pakistani embassy to get a new passport, and I couldn’t get a visa to get out. I called the Pakistan embassy in Argentina and they said I had to go there in person but the Argentinean Embassy in Chile would not give me a visa without an empty page in my passport. I called both sides, again and again. In the end, I was so tired that I told the immigration office at Chile, that I like Chile, and I am going to settle down here unless you want to deport me, which would give me a free ticket home. They got very upset, and understandably so. They were actually so concerned that I might actually decide to live in Chile that they called the Pakistani embassy in Argentina themselves, and arranged for the dispatch of my new passport.
In situations like these, I remain very calm. It’s the people around me who get worried and stressed about the whole thing. One learns from these situations and it is all a part of the adventure. I am also addicted to learning. New things are exciting for me. I gradually got into work that allowed me to travel, but I haven’t enjoyed it as much as venturing out on my own. I went to Malaysia on one of my vacations by myself, but didn’t like Kuala Lumpur too much. it was like a concrete jungle, so I took a bus and ventured into the forests of Sarawak. There I found indigenous people who live in tree houses. I didn’t know the language, but I managed to live with them for a couple of days. I even went on the harvest with the women. Then I hopped onto a chicken truck and hitched a ride back to the city. I have had a lot of rides on chicken trucks on my adventures.

When Paul and I got married, we both left our UN jobs and moved to the Philippines for a few years. We traveled a lot within the Philippines and explored Thailand and Burma. I ventured out into the sea for the first time and learned how to scuba dive. That was like opening up a whole other world. I had been on glass boat rides in Jamaica, but swimming among the fish was so different. I remember when I got my diving certificate, the instructor exclaimed with great pride: ‘You are our first Pakistani diver!’

I saw a lot of sea life on my dives, including sharks. From my fist sighting of a shark, I have been fascinated by these magnificent creatures. Grey Reef sharks are my favorite. On one dive in the Bahamas, right before we jumped, the dive master said, ‘Oh, by the way, you might see a shark or two’. The clear waters of the Bahamas were amazing and as we were about to dive, I could see one shark circling at the sandy bottom of the sea, but as soon as we got down, soon, a group of sharks came from behind and swam all around us. They seemed as curious about us as we were about them. They are gorgeous creatures. They glided past us like royalty of the sea. When you see something so beautiful, you begin to have faith in nature.

This piece was compiled with the assistance of Kamil Ali Rextin who lives in Islamabad

 
 
   
 
 
 
 
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